Don't Be In Such A Rush

Slow down, you move too fast. You got to make the morning last.

-- Paul Simon
The 59th Street Bridge Song

I've no idea whether Paul Simon has ever held a fishing rod, but his lyrics are good advice for fly-casters.

Too often, we rush our cast. Sometimes, we rush because of excitement, as in a fish just showed itself. Sometimes, we rush for fear of letting the fly hit the ground. And sometimes, we rush ... just because.

Whatever the reason, the result is a less-than-perfect cast.

Sometimes, you will hear a loud crack as the unrolling line suddenly changes directions before it has straightened properly. That's the sound of your line actually breaking the sound barrier. Yes, a sonic boom. And the acceleration is so severe that it can fracture the end of your leader.

Another possibility is that you rush a lot. In that case, the cast will probably collapse to one degree or another. That's because you have introduced so much slack that it becomes impossible to maintain tension on the line.

What should you do?

• Your goal is to pause at the end of each stroke just long enough to let the fly line straighten in the air, and it's often enough to measure that pause by saying, "One Mississippi." This works well for short to medium casts. But remember that as your casts get longer, the time needed for your line to straighten also gets longer.
• Another common technique is to actually watch your back cast. Just use an "open" stance, meaning your dominant foot is slightly behind you. That lets you turn your body at an angle, so you can look back easily to see the moment when the line straightens behind you. This can be very effective in practice, but don't make a habit. It's also important that you learn to keep your eye on your target.
• A third method is to judge the pause on your back cast by watching your forward cast. In other words, the time it takes for your line to straighten on the forward cast is pretty much the same as on the back cast. I happen to think this is the best technique, but I also think it is the most difficult. So be patient, especially if you're a beginner.

Are you doomed to forever worry about your back cast? Luckily, no. As you gain experience, good timing will become a part of what you do. Just remember to slow down when you move too fast.

Improve Your Cast By Controlling Your Wrist

Fly-casting instructors are a bunch of liars.

Our lies are well intentioned, mind you. We do it as a way of helping our students execute their casts properly, and it usually works.

Let me give you an example:

One of the most common lies in fly-casting is that you should never bend, or flex, your wrist. The truth is that the wrist can be very important to good casting. A little "rotation" at the right moment will generate a useful burst of speed that can't be achieved any other way.

Why do we lie about this?

We lie, because this "power snap" is a very precise movement applied at a very specific moment, just as you're finishing the casting stroke. If you bend your wrist too much or at the wrong time, your cast loses focus and power. You literally pull the cast apart. But that tends to be more information than most first-time students (and many more-advanced casters) can absorb. Simple instructions are easier to execute.

There is a health concern as well. Casters who use a lot of wrist are prone to certain repetitive stress injuries, carpal tunnel syndrome in particular. Bringing your wrist under control sure beats a visit with the doctor.

The most effective remedy for a floppy wrist is to tell a student to never bend it at all, to always keep it straight or "tight." Chronic "wristers" can even buy a casting aid known as a Wristlock.

Some bending is inevitable, at least that's my belief. But once the student starts thinking in terms of keeping the wrist straight, he or she starts to gain control. The result is a wrist that bends just a bit at the end of the stroke, and that leads to a better cast.

So forgive us our little lies; we mean well. And keep that wrist straight.

One Step Forward? Or One Step Back?

I'm taking a stand on stance.

Simply put, stance is how you position your feet when casting, and the conventional wisdom on the "proper" stance has become rather doctrinal over the years. Pick up most any casting book, and sooner or later, you will find a section where the author discusses the topic.

Typically, these books offer two options:

• Forward stance. This means standing with your dominant foot slightly forward. For right-handers, that's the right foot forward (the reverse for southpaws).
• Open stance. The dominant foot is slightly to the rear.

I'll throw in a third:

• Square stance. Both feet are square and even with the shoulders..

Which option is best?

None of the above, at least not in my mind. Though I might alter a student's stance to achieve certain things in practice, those reasons are largely irrelevant when you're actually fishing. The terrain tends to dictate how you will position your feet. River bottoms, for example, are rarely uniform, so you stand any way you can. I've used positions you'll never find in any book.

When you practice, choose a stance that simply makes you comfortable. Then be prepared to adapt to the prevailing conditions when you're on the water.

If somebody suggests you do otherwise, just put your foot down ... wherever you see fit.

Make Your Practice Sessions Frequent But Brief

As with any sport, fly-casting requires practice. How you practice is also important.

Based on my own experience, I can tell you the temptation is to practice long and hard, making the same cast time after time. And that's bad for a couple reasons.

Most important is that you get tired, and when you're tired, you tend to make mistakes. And when you keep repeating mistakes, you risk turning those errors into bad habits that are hard to break.

Intense practice sessions also pose a physical risk. Never mind that fly-fishing is supposed to be a "light tackle" sport. I'm one of those fly-casters who can cite a history of repetitive stress injuries. Specifically, tennis elbow. Wrist and rotator cuff problems can also occur. Fortunately, I've never required surgery for my casting injuries, but I know casters who have.

Rather than invite such trouble, I routinely advocate sessions that are frequent but brief. Fifteen minutes has always struck me as a good target time. That's not to say you can never go beyond 15 minutes. Just use some discretion, and beware of wearing yourself out.

I also advocate a bit of variety.

Don't just make the same standard overhead cast time after time. Work on your roll cast and off-shoulder roll cast one day, then overhead casts on another. If you're an intermediate or more advanced caster, make an overhead cast while trying to vary the size of your loop, from tight to wide then tight again.

The double haul also deserves practice, but don't forget to spend some time on accuracy. Three or four rags tossed on the lawn will make convenient targets.

The possibilities are many, but I'm sure you get the idea. Just keep your mind fresh, as well as your muscles.

A Better Way To Buy A Fly Rod

There are two ways to go about buying a fly rod: The right way and the wrong way.

The wrong way happens to be the most common method, and it involves giving in to hype and marketing. For example, I just finished reading a couple rod reviews on a well-established website, and I've come away with little real information. Plenty of elaborate language and a "highly recommended" rating on both rods, but very few facts.

A good many rods get sold by such reviews, which is a pity. It's a pity not because I doubt the quality of those rods, but because the consumer deserves better.

Until these "experts" start treating consumers with more respect, I suggest a better way of buying a rod ... the right way:

• Begin with a budget. Buying a fly rod is not that different than buying a car. I.e., if you can only spend $15,000, there's not much point looking at the $100,000 models. So put the process in its proper perspective by figuring out how much you can afford without sacrificing something that's truly important. Pay the rent, feed the family and make sure the kids have shoes first.
• Once you've established a budget, do a bit of research to determine which rods are available within your price range. If you have a $1,000 budget, good for you, you'll have a lot of choices. But even if you can only spend $100, you still have worthwhile options, as long as you're willing to look for them.
• Check the warranties. There is a lot of variation in fly rod warranties, and I won't presume to tell you here which ones are best. But fly rods can be fragile, and you should be aware of your options in case disaster strikes.
• Cast as many of the rods on your list as you can. Now, it might not be possible to cast every rod; no dealer has everything. But good dealers understand the importance of casting a rod before you buy, so don't be shy in asking.
• When you find the right combination of price and castability, buy that rod. Buy it no matter what others might say. It's your money, after all, and it's going to be your rod. Let the "experts" buy their own.

Roll Your Way To A Better Cast

As in any sport, practice is an essential part of fly-casting. The way you practice, of course, depends on what you're trying to accomplish. But regardless of your skill level, there is always value in refining the basics. That's why I'm a big fan of the roll cast.

I know, the roll cast is not terribly sexy or exciting. Some casters seem to go out of their way to avoid it. That's a mistake.
 
It's a mistake, because the roll cast will get you out of any number of difficult fishing situations. It's also a mistake because a good roll cast becomes the foundation for most every other cast. Here's why:
 
Though many people think the roll cast and the standard overhead cast are quite different, they are actually very much the same. The only difference is in how you set up the forward stroke. 

Specifically, you set up the overhead cast by making a back cast, while the roll cast has no back cast.
 
Why is that important?
 
For the purpose of practice, eliminating the back cast simplifies everything. There's no need to worry what the line is doing behind you, because there is no back cast. This frees you to focus on the forward stroke. And a good forward stroke is essential not only to your roll cast, but to your overhead cast.
 
One limitation with the roll cast is that it requires water: a lake, a pond, a river, a small creek. I've even used puddles after it has rained. You need a bit of water tension gripping the line to make this cast work correctly. Yes, there are techniques for simulating a roll cast without water, but I don't recommend them for serious practice. I find they all fall short in one way or another.
 
So when you plan your next practice session, set aside at least a few minutes for this important cast. And let the good times roll.

Practice With A Proper Leader

When you practice casting, you should put a proper leader on your fly line.

I've seen students with every type of leader imaginable. I've even had some show up without a leader. And it's easy to anticipate the outcome: Trouble.

Fly lines are designed with the expectation of having a leader. Think of your leader as the fly line's disposable tip. You can cut it, you can twist it, you can even tie it in knots. And none of that poses a serious problem, because leaders are easily replaced at minimal cost.

It sure beats having to cut four or five inches off your expensive fly line each time you tie on a new fly.

And the manufacturers include that in their thinking. Not only is the line designed to throw a fly, it is also designed to throw the leader.

What happens if you cast without an adequate leader? It's akin to stopping your car by driving it into a brick wall. Instead of dissipating energy in a smooth, controlled manner, the line "kicks" at the end of the cast. At best, the kick makes a smooth cast impossible, and you'll probably see the line's tip fold under itself at the end of the cast. At worst, the kick can be so harsh that it actually shreds the tip of your line.

Perhaps you're reluctant to buy a new leader each time you practice. Then I suggest you build your own. All you need is three spools of monofilament and the ability to tie a blood knot (you can find instructions for tying a blood knot on the internet).

To make a practice leader for rods 8-weight and heavier, buy spools of 40-pound mono, 25-pound mono and 15-pound mono.

• Pull off a length of 40-pound mono about 5.5 feet long, and blood-knot it to a piece of 25-pound mono about 1.5 feet long.
• Now, blood-knot 1.5 feet of 15-pound mono to the 25-pound mono.

To make a practice leader for 6- and 7-weight rods, substitute 25-pound, 15-pound and 12-pound mono.

For 4- and 5-weight rods, use 20-pound, 15-pound and 10-pound mono.

If you're worried about wasting money on those three spools of mono just to practice your casting, relax. You can also fish with those leaders. The first formula I gave, for an 8-weight rod, is my standard redfish leader.

So don't hesitate to tie one one. It's going to pay off.